The crafting skill for carved candied fruit has a long history, and it originated from the Miao minority’s “scented tea”, and then evolved into the present “carved candied fruit”, whose major ingredient is pomelo. At first, one should select pomelo to cut into slices, or use a lancet to carve some pictures on it,such as dragons, phoenix, fish, shrimp, flower, birds,insects, leaves, and some artistic patterns like “magpies sporting on plum blossom”, “peacocks spreading their tails”, “swallows pecking mud”, “two dragons playing pearls”, “Chang’e flying to the moon” and “fish sporting in the water”; then rinse these carved slices of pomelo; and then, soak these slices in sugar or honey after boiling them in an iron pot; and finally, dry these slices. Carved candied fruit, which carries the wisdom of Miao and Dong ancestors, was listed in the fifth national intangible cultural heritage in 2021.

I. Origin 

The carving art of candied fruit is the crystallization of Jingzhouers’ wisdom. The sagacious ancestors came to learn that all the pomelo would not grow up well if a pomelo tree yields too many fruits; therefore, they picked the extra immature fruits (called Daguo, which means “picking fruit”), and it was a pity if the extra fruits were thrown away. Thus, the deft sisters-in-law and maids were made to engrave exquisite patterns on the fruits to depict the beauty of life.

Carved candied fruit is not only a unique national food, but also a handicraft as beautiful as jade and chic in shape. It is a folk art treasure with a perfect combination of food culture and national culture. It originated in the Eastern Zhou Dynasty, developed at the end of the five dynasties, passed down from generation to generation, and became the imperial product of the tributary court in Jingzhou. Jingzhou carving and candied fruit skills are distributed in Quyang Town and its surrounding area, Jingzhou Miao and Dong Autonomous County, southwest Hunan Province.

II. Features

There are various tools and materials needed for making carved candied fruits, such as lancet, kitchen knife, iron pot, alum, porcelain plate (basin), choice sugar and many melons and fruits. With a small lancet and through a specific process, the roots, stems, leaves, flowers and fruits of various melons, fruits and vegetables can be carved into traditional refreshments and ornamental products. Carved candied fruits, also known as “scented tea”, in which pomelo can be stored for a long time, are noted as “canned natural fruits” with the carved candied pomelo being a wonder. In addition, wax gourd, cucumber, vegetable melon, tomato, bitter gourd, red bean, sword bean, melon tube, eggplant and so on are used as raw materials, of which melons are cut into rectangles, water chestnuts form, sharp corners and other patterns. Bitter gourd can be carved into water toad-shaped pattern; cowpea can be twisted into three-ear-shaped knots or button-shaped knot; sword bean can be weaved into orchid-shaped ornament; tomato can be made into begonia flower-like ornament; eggplant can be made into jade hairpin pattern; melon tube can be made into fairy column-like pattern. The above-mentioned raw materials are different, and the color, type and taste of candied fruits assume their own different features.

Carved candied fruits are an artistically creative activity full of dexterity and wisdom. Aunts and sisters-in-law, skillful women and maids cut pomelo into even thin slices being round or sectorial, and then use lancets to display their carving talents on the pomelo slices like admirable talented artists, with the slices in their hands, piercing, cutting, peeling. and pricking; and very soon, the chrysanthemum-or-fish-or-shrimp-shaped candied fruits can be carved. The whole carving is clear, skilful, smooth and fine, and the carvings are lifelike. The shapes of the carved candied fruits are legion: double dragons playing pearls, peacocks spreading their tails, mandarin ducks sporting in the water, magpies carrying plums in the mouth, eagles spreading their wings, swallows in the spring, crabs and shrimps,  the flying bees and dancing butterflies, Chinese knots, double-happiness pictures, Happiness-enter-door picture... Everything is beautiful and dazzling.

This carving art has a long history of more than 2000 years, playing a certain role in promoting the development of folk art, especially sculpture art in our country. Coming from the folk, this art is a portrayal of the lives of the ordinary people as well as a unique expression of national cultural psychology and cultural accumulation in different times. The art has a unique artistic form and rich cultural connotations of Miao and Dong people, reflecting the Miao and Dong people’s historical and cultural tradition, aesthetic pursuit and unique national spirit from the connotation to the external forms of expression, achieving the artistic effect of being lifelike through workmanship, which can suit both refined and popular tastes. The production process of carved candied fruit is complex, and the techniques involved, difficult to be replaced by modern technology, are the crystallization of the wisdom of Jingzhou locals. This kind of art fully demonstrates the creativity and craftsmanship of the Miao and Dong people, which is of positive significance to the formation and development of the multiculturalism of the Chinese nation.

(Translated by Yang Sigui)