In the heart of Hunan's Xiangxi region flows the crystal-clear Tuo River, meandering gently at the border between Guizhou and Hunan. Along its banks, the predominant residents belong to the Miao and Tujia ethnic groups. Just 23 kilometers from the hometown of renowned author Shen Congwen, the ancient Miao village of Shanjiang stands out as a vibrant showcase of Miao culture, captivating the eyes of many visitors.
Market day and singing duels
Nestled in a valley, Shanjiang is separated from the surrounding mountains by a lush green river. The ancient Miao chieftain’s village is perched on the hillside just behind the town. On the fifth day of each month, a small market is held, while a larger gathering occurs on the eighth. During these times, Miao families from nearby villages converge on the Shanjiang market to trade.
Arriving at the market on the fifth, one may find himself amidst a bustling crowd as early as 9 AM. People stream toward Shanjiang, many dress in colorful traditional Miao attire. Some carry bamboo products, while others brought fresh vegetables and fruits from their farms, creating a lively scene filled with vibrant colors.
By noon, the market is in full swing. Miao women showcase exquisite silver ornaments crafted by local artisans. These handmade treasures were not only beautifully designed but also quite affordable, with lovely pieces available for just thirty to forty yuan.
The market serves not just as a place for trade but also as a golden opportunity for local youth to seek romance. At the entrance of the town stands a small pavilion with the words “Dui Ge Tai” (Singing Duel Stage) prominently displayed. This is where Miao people gather for festivals like Harvest Day. In addition to market activities, these celebrations feature singing duels, dancing, and bonfires, primarily involving young men and women. If two people catch each other’s eye, they may engage in a playful hand-tap, signaling mutual interest, which may lead them to the singing stage. A successful duet will spark a deeper connection, while a less harmonious one will simply end in smiles as they continue their search for companionship.
Traditional homes and hospitality
Behind the bustling market lies the Miao village, where towering stone buildings and homes made of yellow clay dot the landscape. At the center stands the former palace of the Miao king, built from gray-white stone, a symbol of the village’s rich history. This site, known as the Zongbingzhai, was once home to a progressive Miao leader who supported revolutionary ideals. Today, it has been transformed into a museum.
The village homes are terraced against the mountainside, with fresh spring water flowing freely through pipes from the mountains above. Some houses display Taoist symbols, their wooden doors slightly ajar, revealing lush rice fields and thriving plants at their doorsteps. These homes exude a sense of tranquility. Outside of market days, life here flows as gently as the nearby spring water.
Travel tips
To reach Shanjiang, it’s best to transfer in Fenghuang. From Beijing, take train K267, arrive at Jishou Station; alternatively, fly to Zhangjiajie and then take a train to Jishou. Buses regularly depart from Jishou Railway Station to Fenghuang, and from there, a local minibus will take you to Shanjiang.
(Translated by Yang Hong)